A Colorado Winter Escape: No Skis, No Problem
- The Agricoutourist
- Mar 4
- 5 min read
When Mardi Gras season rolled around this year, I chose to swap the chaos for something quieter, colder, and undeniably Colorado. This year, I skipped the parades and king cake for a winter road trip filled with small-town charm, steaming hot springs, historic hotels, and just enough adventure to keep my soul stirred. I don't snow ski, so this post is about all the things non skiers might want to do on a short winter trip to Colorado.
Landing in Denver: Let the Adventure Begin
Touching down in Denver, I traded airport crowds for mountain views and pointed my car southwest to Saguache, a quiet high-desert town with deep agricultural roots and a rich history as a gateway to Colorado’s mining boom of the late 1800s. "Saguache" is a Ute word thought to mean "blue earth" or "sand dunes." The area became a supply hub for nearby mining camps and homesteaders who depended on its fertile lands for hay, grains, and livestock. Today, it’s better known as a refuge for artists, writers, and makers seeking the solitude of the San Luis Valley.
Saguache: Linotype, Pottery, Mushrooms, and Small-Town Stories
There, I met Dean, the owner of the Saguache Crescent, the last paper in the world printed weekly on a Linotype machine. Dean’s calm dedication to preserving this craft felt like meeting a living time capsule.
Afterward, I wandered into The Mushroom Store, a charming, fungi-focused shop that doubles as a hub for local foragers and nature lovers. I spent time chatting with the owner about wild mushrooms of the San Luis Valley, the best seasons for morels and chanterelles, and how local enthusiasts responsibly harvest edible fungi from the surrounding forests and foothills. I left with a packet of dried porcini mushrooms and a newfound appreciation for the foraging traditions thriving in this part of Colorado. For anyone inspired to forage, I recommend the Mushroom Foraging Guidebook and a Compact Foraging Knife with Brush and for those of you interested in southeastern mushrooms - Foraging Mushrooms Identification Field Guide of the Northeast: Wild Edible Mushrooms and Recipes of North America
I also stopped into the local pottery studio, and picked up a few earthy, hand-thrown mugs, then browsed the antique store, where the town “tour guide” Nick and I got lost in conversation over the history of the town. I even took him up on what turned out to be a two hour agricultural and historical tour of his town. I hope I got it all down in my notes correctly.
Exploring the Agricultural Roots of Saguache
My two-hour historical agriculture tour of Saguache, Colorado, was like stepping into a living time capsule of the San Luis Valley's rich farming heritage. Nestled between the Sangre de Cristo and San Juan Mountains, Saguache has long been a hub for resilient homesteaders, ranchers, and growers who carved out a living in this high desert environment.
As we journeyed through town and out into the patchwork of fields beyond, I learned how settlers in the late 1800s relied on innovative irrigation techniques to transform this arid land into fertile ground. Ditches hand-dug over a century ago are still in use today, feeding fields of alfalfa, heritage grains, and hay that sustain local cattle operations. Of course, they were deep into winter so I'm sure a visit back in Spring or Summer would look much different.
One highlight of the tour was visiting a historic sheep ranch, where we heard stories of the Basque and Hispanic herders who helped shape the region’s wool industry. It was easy to imagine the valley dotted with grazing flocks and the rhythmic work of shearing, spinning, and trading wool as a lifeline for the community.
Nick's impromptu tour was a thoughtful blend of history and present-day perseverance. I saw how modern farmers are continuing the legacy with organic practices, seed-saving efforts, and community-supported agriculture, all while honoring the knowledge passed down through generations. Of course, there are local concerns for the hispanic population so integral to agriculture here and throughout our country.
Hot Sulphur Springs: Healing Waters and a Night in the Past
Hot Sulphur Springs might be one of Colorado’s best-kept secrets. Established in 1860, it’s the oldest resort town in the state, built around natural hot springs once used by the Ute people as sacred healing grounds. By the late 1800s, as gold rushes swept the Rockies, the town became a popular stagecoach stop and retreat for weary miners seeking to soak away their aches.
The springs, rumored to carry healing properties from their rich mineral content, did not disappoint.
Leadville Detour: Skijoring at its Finest
After a peaceful night, I woke early and backtracked to Leadville, once one of the richest mining towns in America. Perched at 10,152 feet, it's the highest incorporated city in the U.S. Leadville boomed in the late 1800s thanks to silver mining, and remnants of its past are visible in its well-preserved Victorian buildings and saloons. Today, the town is a living museum of Colorado’s mining heritage.
This was no ordinary stop. I arrived just in time for the annual skijoring competition, where Savannah McCarthy held her title.
Estes Park: Wool, Ghosts, and a Little Magic
Finally, I crossed the Continental Divide and descended into Estes Park, the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, my final NP in Colorado to check of my list of National Parks. The town was settled in the mid-1800s and quickly became a summer resort destination for those escaping the plains heat. Before tourism, early settlers farmed the valley and raised livestock, supplying goods to nearby mining towns.
Then, it was time to settle in at the iconic Stanley Hotel, where Stephen King dreamed up The Shining during a winter stay eerily similar to mine. With so many activities to choose from—the ghost tour, Shining tour, Frozen Dead Guy tour, magic show, massage, and even a seance—I gave up trying to decide and simply did them all.
I treated myself to dinner at one of the hotel's acclaimed restaurants, where locally sourced ingredients shine in cozy, atmospheric dining rooms. The multi colored carrots were so sweet they required no seasoning at all. The wine bar offered an impressive selection of Colorado vintages, making it the perfect place to unwind after a day of adventures.
Downtown Estes Park is a treasure trove for anyone seeking unique, locally crafted items. I spent an afternoon browsing boutiques filled with handmade jewelry, pottery, textiles, and art, all created by regional artisans. Whether you're picking up gifts or finding something special for yourself, Estes Park's shopping scene is full of one-of-a-kind finds that reflect the creative spirit of the Rockies. Fortunately, my travel bag was full and my wallet was left in tact.
Heading Home Refreshed and Ready
By the end of the trip, I was restored in every possible way. No lift tickets, no gear rentals, no crowded slopes. Just small towns, hot springs, local makers, good stories, and mountain roads with the best company—myself.
Final Tip
Colorado in the winter is so much more than skiing. Whether you're soaking in ancient springs, touring historic print shops, cheering on skijoring cowboys, or chasing ghosts through the halls of a haunted hotel, there’s magic waiting on every mountain pass. I did not need tire chains or 4 wheel drive but I did keep a constant eye on the weather when in the mountains.
Mardi Gras will be there next year. For now, give me snowflakes, ghost stories, and a road that never hurries.
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