Rhine Christmas Market Cruise Day 4: Heidelberg – Hats, Mugs, and Holiday Cheer

We woke up to another delightful breakfast onboard, exchanging greetings with our new friends. This group has been wonderfully friendly—well, except for a few mean girls who weren’t thrilled about my fabulous hat obstructing their view at dinner. Listen, ladies, we’re docked at an industrial port; my hat is the jolliest thing in sight. You’re welcome and Sorry, Not Sorry.

Our drive to Heidelberg was straight out of a storybook. We passed idyllic farms and vineyards winding through the Black Forest (the Germans love hiking), and finally arrived in this beautifully preserved German city. It was everything you’d imagine from a European holiday setting: Castles, cobblestone streets, historic charm, and a festive Christmas market.

A Christmas Market Surprise

Now, here’s where it gets exciting. Starting on November 1, I go full-throttle with cheesy Christmas movies, and this year, I stumbled upon something truly magical (not actually good at all) if you aren't planning a Rhine Christmas Market Cruise): the Heidelberg Holiday is centered around the fictional story of American artist Heidi Heidelberg's acceptance into the city’s holiday market! Naturally, I’ve already decided I’m entering the knitting queen (Mom) for a market space next year, so start those scarf patterns, Mom. We’re coming back! We are even having talks with the cruise director about her teaching knitting lessons for discounts on cruises. Keep knitting Mom!

History and Wine: The Heidelberg Essentials

Heidelberg is famous for its history—Mark Twain wrote here, and Van Morrison got his start playing in pubs. And there’s this huge castle and gorgeous 18th and 19th century architecture so proly some other stuff happened here as well. So, it’s a cultural hotspot, but let’s be real: our sights were set on the Christmas market nestled under Heidelberg Castle.

Market Under a Castle

Speaking of castles, we ditched the official castle tour because, plot twist, we only had 45 minutes to explore the market. Instead, we hopped on the Erlebnis Heidelberg Bergbahn (a funicular) to the city center, where the market was in full swing.

Market Adventures: Mugs, Mulled Wine, and a Carousel

Every Christmas market in Germany has its own custom mug for spiced warm wine, or glühwein, and Heidelberg’s was no exception. The only downside to collecting these adorable keepsakes? Drinking all that glühwein.

Oh, the struggles we endure for holiday cheer. Wink. So far Raggie and Alice could live without another mug of it...Betsy is collecting mugs so, she will partake at every market we hit.

We enjoyed our second round of wine in the aptly named Barrel Bar, surrounded by as many craft stalls as there were cozy pubs.

At one point, Betsy rode the carousel solo and judging by the looks from passersby, they thought Betsy was part of the entertainment. She was definitely the entertainment for us. She resembles a gnome more than a white witch we think.

Scooter Gnome

Farmer Gnome

Happy Gnome

Angry Gnome

Shopping, Scenery, and German Treasures

The surrounding scenery was stunning—vineyards, picturesque farms, and the serene Neckar River. The relaxing drive reminded me why having a driver (and not doing the driving myself) is such a luxury. We passed major corporate headquarters like John Deere, Siemens, and Mercedes Benz—because even in the Black Forest, German engineering reigns supreme.

The market itself was smaller than others we’ve visited but packed with treasures: holiday baked goods, nutcrackers, candles, soaps, and the cutest felted crafts. We picked up a few gifts for our children, Claire, co-workers, Gabe (Black Forest Whiskey- shhh) and April. Alice scored a matching hat and wrist warmers for her outfit of the day and found a special present for Summer Ansley.

These Advent Calendars are in every market

Alice buys new warm gear

Mom is heaven with the pastries

Miniature Bronze Replica of Heidelberg -reminded Alice of "All the Light You Cannot See" movie

The Mansions of Heidelberg

Back to the Ship: A Warm Welcome

After collecting yet another two custom Christmas mugs (yes, we’re running out of suitcase space), we returned to the ship for lunch. We were greeted with warm lemon water hand towels and—you guessed it—more glühwein. I’m starting to think Ozempic belly shots should come complimentary with this trip.

Lunch

As if the scenic beauty of the Rhine wasn’t enough, today’s lunch menu onboard proved that the culinary journey can be just as thrilling as the landscapes. The variety and thoughtfulness in every dish made this a meal to remember.

A Truly German Lunch!

The meal started with a classic: freshly baked bread rolls and lye confect paired with creamy butter. Warm, soft, and comforting, it set the tone perfectly for what was to come.

The appetizer spread was a delightful tribute to German cuisine: white sausage, Black Forest ham, and a rich cheese quiche, alongside a tangy eggplant salad. I couldn't resist the German sausage salad, with its mix of radishes, red onion, pickles, and chives—it was light yet bold in flavor.

The soup options catered to every taste: a hearty beef consommé with meat dumplings and pancake strips, or a comforting lentil soup with grilled sausages. The beef consommé was a personal favorite—so flavorful, it felt like a hug in a bowl.

Choosing between the grilled perch fillet with Mediterranean vegetables and the Käsespätzle (a decadent dish of egg drop noodles, Alp cheese, and crispy onions) was tough, but the carving station stole the show. From pork belly and pork knuckles to pork neck, paired with sauerkraut, beer sauce, and roast potatoes, the offerings celebrated the heartiness of German cuisine. I may or may not have gone back for seconds only to taste the kraut which is my next winter undertaking.

No meal is complete without dessert, and the choices were divine. The creamy Bavarian Crème with blueberries and almond biscuit was as delicate as it was delicious, while the Ice Cream Black Forest brought caramel and strawberry flavors to the forefront. For those who wanted something lighter, fresh seasonal fruits and a selection of European cheeses rounded out the meal.

At some point during our meal our ship set sail to our next destination for our first day sail. We went upstairs to watch the castles pass by and ran into so many of our friends enjoying the chilly sunshine on deck. Some even dared the pool.

Guest Lecture and Gingerbread Decorating

We joined a fascinating lecture by Dr. Steffen Kamenicek titled, “The Rhine: European History from the Romans to the EU.” Dr. Kamenicek had a knack for making centuries of history feel alive, weaving tales of Roman conquests, medieval trade, and modern-day diplomacy. Did this guy really come ask me if we needed more food and drink? They never stop. With 86 staff and 200 or so guests – it can get a bit uncomfortable but we are adjusting as best we can.

Meanwhile, Alice was busy getting hands-on with the chef in a workshop on traditional German gingerbread decorating. She came back with a creation that would put most Pinterest posts to shame—perfectly piped icing, tiny candy details, and four gingerbread cookies instead of just one as expected in the time limit allowed:) Watching her proudly display her edible artwork made me wonder if I chose the wrong event. Dr. Kamenicek was great, but let’s be honest: you can’t eat a lecture.

Whether delving into centuries of European history or embracing holiday creativity with a piping bag, the day offered something for everyone. As we regrouped over dinner, it became clear: this cruise knows how to make every moment special.

Dinner

We were too full - skipped it.

Train Ride to Wine Tasting

Coming with next update - gonna be a late night